BUILD YOUR OWN MODULAR

Install the resistors first, as these components can be in some awkward places after connectors have gone on. Make sure you are installing on the "FRONT" mark side of the board. Bend the leads of the resistors as tight as you can up to 90 degrees as they will only just fit in, this was to save space on the board. There are three different values, take care to select the right one, note that 1ohm has a silver band indicator.

Above are the three values needed, use the BOM within the book and tick off the resistors as you go along. Note the way the resistors look can vary quite a lot. There is no orientation to the resistors, they can go either way around, be sure to be installing them on the "FRONT" side of the panel.

There is one multilayer caramic capacitor (MLCC) and 5 Electrolytic capacitors. Ceramic caps fit in either way around, I like to try and keep their value visible from the side so face them outwards. They should be marked with 221 which means 220 pico farads, equals 220pF aka 0.22nF. Your capacitor may be marked different.

Note your capacitor may be a different colour, or marking than this capacitor as there is variation between different manufacturers. If you ordered them yourself, check the manufacturers datasheet.

The electrolytics are polarized, they only go in one way around otherwise they are damaged. The PCB is marked with a positive (+), the component is marked with a (-) for negative. The long leg indicates (+) and the short (-). If unsure look at the pad, square pad means (+). You can read the value of the capacitor by reading the text on its side, it is usually in microfarads. In this case 100uF.

It is essential to watch orientation on these parts. Turn to the component orentation part of the ring binder for a visual representation of how the diode fits the footprint. Bend the leads down slightly wider than we are doing the resistors, these footprints are bigger because the leads on the component are quite chunky.

Polyfuses look a lot like ceramic capacitors but they are nothing like them, they are like a resistor that goes very high resistance when too much current passes through them. There are only two to install and they have no specific orientation

Make sure the oritentation is correct. To solder the IC socket (U1), bend the pins out a little so it grips after installing so you don't have to hold it down when soldering.

The inductor is completely unmarked usually, you just have to know it is the right one. In the kit there is only one so it is hard to get confused. There is no polarity, put it in either way around.

For The IDC socket you can't bend the pins because they are short and thick, instead hold in in the PCB and tack a pin at each end, then inspect to see if it is in properly, then solder all the pins. IDC sockets are also orientated only one way around, refer to the orientation section of the book.

Everything so far has been on the "FRONT", now we have to flip it over and fit DC jack. It should fit into their sockets snugly and hold itself, so you do not need to hold them down to solder. Feed plenty of solder onto the large mounting pads make sure you fully bury the connectors in solder as this needs to be quite strong.

This module has no components that hold the board onto the panel, instead we use PCB pillars that have the same height as the DC jack. Simply screw them into the board at the corners as pictured with M3x6mm Screws.

Then screw on the front panel whilst feeding through the LEDs. Note the LEDs have clear markings on the PCB to which way around they go. I like to solder them in so they poke out, or you can do it flush with the surface, it is up to you.

Watch the orientation of the IC, it should be facing upwards if looking at the FRONT of the PCB in the socket. You will need to bend the pins straight, using a special tool or by bending them on a desk surface.